The Lexy Show: Fashion That Gives A Damn

Haute Talk with Ruben Nowak | Revolutionizing Fashion with Purpose and Personal Transformation

Lexy Silverstein Season 9 Episode 11

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0:00 | 25:43

Can fashion slow down without losing its edge?

This week, Lexy sits down with Ruben Nowak, founder and designer of the Berlin-based fashion label NOWRUBI. After serving as a German Air Force officer, Ruben taught himself how to sew, studied fashion design in Berlin, and built a brand that combines structured military influences with individuality, rebellion, and bold storytelling.

Ruben explains how NOWRUBI’s made-to-order model allows the brand to produce clothing only after a customer places an order, reducing excess inventory while helping a small independent label survive financially. He and Lexy discuss why shoppers have become conditioned to expect instant delivery, how transparency can help customers appreciate the work behind their clothing, and why waiting a few days for a garment should become normal again.

They also explore Ruben’s Berlin Fashion Week collection, Innocence, which follows three stages of growing up: childhood imagination, teenage rebellion, and adulthood. Ruben shares how Berlin Fashion Week evaluates participating designers through sustainability reporting and why other major fashion weeks should hold brands to stronger environmental standards. The conversation closes with his seven-day rule for avoiding impulse purchases and choosing pieces more intentionally.

Social Media

NOWRUBI: @nowrubi
Website: nowrubi.de

If you enjoyed this conversation, be sure to subscribe to The Lexy Show, leave a review, and share this episode with someone who's ready to make more mindful choices for themselves and the planet. For more information visit https://lexysilverstein.com/

LEX-Nowrubi

Lexy: [00:00:00] Welcome to the.

Welcome to the Lexi Show Fashion that gives a damn where we expose fast fashion and celebrate the brands and products actually making a difference for our planet. I'm Lexi Silverstein, and today I'm talking with Reuben Noack, the founder of now Ruby. If you're new here, head to lexi silverstein.com for information on sustainable fashion and eco-conscious living.

And if you love what you hear, subscribe and share this episode. It helps more than you think. Reuben,

welcome, how are you doing? Okay, perfect. So yeah, we can get started on your site. You describe now Ruby as a tribute to transformation and the courage to break free from strict systems to embrace individuality. So what was the moment that you realized the traditional fashion system kind of wouldn't work for you, and what specifically did you want to do differently when you started this brand?

Ruben: Yeah, so this is like the, the second career choice I, I've been taking on here right now. So during my time as a German Air Force officer, um, I just purchased a [00:01:00] sewing machine back in the days. Started suing on my own, teach myself suing, um, took me like I would say two to three years. And then afterwards, uh, I like made really fun and was really fun to me, and therefore I was like, okay, let's try something new.

Then I moved from El Paso, Texas to Berlin. 

Lexy: Oh, wow. 

Ruben: And studied fashion design. And then I was like, okay, let's, let's try something different. To start their own brand. And, um, yeah, the approach is the made to order model, um, to act as sustainable as possible. What, like, what, what is possible for my timeframe and everything.

Um, but it's still like, we still at the beginning, to be honest, 

Lexy: that is so incredible and such an amazing story. I love that. Where did you first, you know, find this maybe passion to like get into the sustainability aspect? All of, all of it. 

Ruben: Assuming if you study like fashion design in, uh, Berlin, it's like sustainability is like a really big topic.

Um, we've been talking lot and it starts like with fabric choices, [00:02:00] everything and treatment, whereas like production located and everything. And, um, therefore I start everything on my own prototypes, patterns and stuff. And then I talk to different companies, uh, visited different companies. Then I get to know.

Couple of guys in the fashion industry who's like working with like Turkey production, Chinese production, Portugal production. And then I was like really deep dive into the Berlin fashion scene. And here we have a lot of studios, a lot of brands which are like able to do, made to order in-house production, which is amazing.

And therefore I was like, okay, this is something I could also fulfill and try to get my vision out here. And this is, uh, the reason why I started. 

Lexy: That's amazing. I wish that sustainability was taught more in, I mean, I went to a fashion school in Los Angeles and we had a class that was like called sustainability.

Um, and we always talked about it in our classes and I think that just like. All of the [00:03:00] students were individually like driven by sustainability. But if, imagine if every, every school out there, everyone who, you know, learned and, and designed, um, focused more on sustainability like consumers would have no choice but to shop sustainably.

And then I think that that's really amazing that Berlin, you know, really focuses on that when teaching fashion. I wish. 

Ruben: Yeah. Yeah, exactly. So, but to be honest here, when it comes to like sustainable topic and fashion, to make it clear like the most sustainable fashion rent is the brand which is not producing at all.

Lexy: Mm-hmm. 

Ruben: So this is like the hard fact, and everyone should be aware of this. So it's kind of to keep like the impact as low as. 

Lexy: Yeah. What's like, um, there's a brand, a designer brand here that, oh my god, I can't think of what it's called, but I think they're, like saying with sustainability is like the most sustainable thing is to like not buy anything or where what's already out there.

But since [00:04:00] we're producing, I think like realistically, unfortunately, like. Yeah, we're not gonna, we're not gonna stop producing stuff anytime soon. Yeah. Um, we are obviously often a lot of, you know, the way that things are is driven by making money. And I, I, I think that it's, it's hard to change everyone's mindset of being like, just don't buy anything.

Um, but obviously when, if you're going to buy, like. We support something that, or a company or wherever that is, is trying to be as sustainable as possible. That's how I say people. 

Ruben: Yeah. 

Lexy: Unfortunately, I do love to buy some things sometimes, but if I'm buying, it's gonna my money and my, my. Purchases are gonna support a business that values align with mine.

But your sourcing and production process is documented, documented online for anyone to directly view, which I think is so cool. Um, why do you think that transparency is so important? 

Ruben: I mean, it's a like a storytelling [00:05:00] process and it's like really important to involve the people. And it's like, it starts with the idea, like the mood boards and everything you're behind.

So it's like really important to like have the people on board since like the first steps for the new collection. And, um, it's also important for me to, you know, to make content and to get like the reach to that the people even start to know the brand. And so it's like good for me, good for for the brand and also good for the customers so that they can like, identify with the stuff we're doing here.

Lexy: Yeah, I think like when, I mean transparency, I honestly feel like is so hard sometimes in, in 

Ruben: yeah. 

Lexy: Industry, like 

Ruben: mm-hmm. 

Lexy: Like there's, I don't know. When I, when I look up brands and do research and try to find out, like that's always how I kind of feel like I know when a brand like really, really cares is when I can find when, when a brand is doing something good, like.

They're obviously gonna wanna put that out there versus like if you, you know, see a brand that is. You know, maybe I, I [00:06:00] feel like a good example is like these fast fashion brands that will drop like a, a green eco line or something. And I'm like, if I were to ask them like, where'd you get that? Who made it?

Like, I, I don't think they'd be able to give me those answers. And so I feel like that's how you can always kind of tell with like, greenwashing that's out there is like. If a brand is doing good, they're, they're gonna talk about it. They're gonna tell you everything. Like obviously if they're, if they're doing bad, they're, they're gonna keep that under wraps.

Um, and so I think that that's so cool and so important. And again, I'm like so glad that this is the setup for this podcast 'cause you really can just see everything. And that's just so cool. I'm, 

Ruben: maybe this is modern fast fashion. I'm not sure here to be honest now. Just kidding. Um, we, we, we try to do the best we can and I can, I can be transparent and let you know that like we got some new customers recently because we dropped a new ready to recollection based on our burden, fashion collection.

And, um, they are not used to this kind of model. Like after like six to seven days, you the first emails. Yo [00:07:00] bro, where's my piece? So I'm waiting six days already. I said, yeah, I can send you a picture. It's like we cut right now, the color and everything. Um, but yeah, the people are not really used to it right now, but when they are like the core community from the Ruby, they like, okay, bro, take your time.

We know it's, uh, you going to do this with your team in the studio. But, um, I guess we still at the beginning what, when it comes to water, for example. 

Lexy: More brands like yours, like we can hopefully normalize it. I think that it's so cool. So you use, like you mentioned, a made to order model to eliminate overproduction.

Um, so how does that operationally work and why do you think this approach was so important? 

Ruben: I mean, the, the made to order model to being completely transparent and honest is also like kind of a chance to survive. So to, to step into a new collection and talking with production and like 200 pieces of this jacket, uh, 500 pieces of the pants.

And then if there are, like one [00:08:00] collection is not working out, it could be like already over. Um, but you, this is like the way to survive, but it's also like for us, easier to manage. Um, so we are working with the own online shop and we have a couple of stores based in, uh, Germany. Therefore we can, okay, we know we need like, kind of, uh, 300 meters of the new fabric and then we try to put the fabric on different silhouettes and style so we can reuse it.

And, um, yeah. So it's the best model to survive and as a small brand, to be honest. 

Lexy: So how does it work? So if I'm a customer and I wanna order something, like do I send measurements or. 

Ruben: No, there's, if, if you go, if you go to our online shop, you can just order right away, like the normal size range. Uh, okay.

Like most the size range is available. And, um, then we have all patterns here. Our patterns are there, and then we just start cutting the day after. Um, depends on like the traffic, which we like, um, looking at right now. But normally it takes like three to seven days, um, that then the product is like [00:09:00] fulfilled and ready to ship.

So we, we buy the fabrics and everything is in-house already laying here on the, under the table and in the storage area and stuff. And then we start just working on the order after you place the order. 

Lexy: That's so cool. I'm obsessed. So like the, um. What was I gonna say? Um, I think that, that's so important.

I think like what you were saying, like people aren't used to it, but I think the more we like support this made to order, you know, production way or, or just mindset is like it's, I, I have been talking about this so much, but I'm like, I really just think we all need to slow down. Like obviously there's the whole slow fashion movement and like.

Just in general, like if, when, when we buy things, like I feel like with the amount of things that are out there, like Amazon and TikTok shop and all of these ways of buying things and there's ads thrown at us like every five seconds, like I [00:10:00] cannot go anywhere without being like, that's an ad. There's an ad, another ad.

I'm constantly being sold something and then I think because of that. We're very quick to just make these impulse purchases and we're just like, we saw this on TikTok and I, and I put it in my cart and I bought it and I, it came to my house the literal next day. And then I'm realizing like I did, I even really want it.

Like did I really need that? And I think when you really care for something and you really love a piece, like it's worth the wait and really what is like seven days? Of waiting for an incredible item to be like sent to your house. You know, it was made for you, made to order, like buy an incredible brand.

Like we just need to slow down. Like everything has gotten so convenient and it's like too convenient. Yeah. 

Ruben: I mean, the fashion industry is so fast. Um, also like when we're talking about the fashion week schedule mm-hmm. Like do two collections, like. Collections twice a [00:11:00] year, two collections. Mm-hmm. It's like kind of intense.

And, um, there's also something we need to be, be seen out here, and it's a lot of work and time. And when we do a Berlin Fashionery collection, we also do like a ready to wear collection, which is like popping out of this like runway stuff. Mm-hmm. So the runway stuff is way more expensive and. Uh, way more work needs to go in, but the ready to recollection.

So kind of redoing like four collections to five collections per year, which is a lot. But like the, the pieces itself, it's like not 400 pieces per year, uh, styles per year. It's like way less. But, uh, 

Lexy: yeah. Yeah. Even like that, I mean, I remember when. The fashion industry, which this wasn't even that long ago.

Um, but it was like, you know, brands release like what you're saying, like for per collection, per fashion week, um, season. And then now it's like people are just releasing things like once a day, once a week. Like, I'm like, why do we need this much stuff? Like, let's, let's slow down and go back to. You know, at, at [00:12:00] least just doing the, the, the drops for the fashion weeks.

And I, I just remember like, I think it's she and God, I used to say this stat all the time, and now that I haven't said it in a while, I'm like, can't remember what it is. But it was something like she and. Like releases anywhere from like, I don't even know, 20 to 10,000 individual styles per day. And then that's just the style.

So on top of that, it's like, you know, there's 20 of that individual style and then there's 300 of that other style. And it's like, why do we even need that many clothes? Like let's, let's slow down and let's remember like to value. Pieces and value how things are made. And I think showing people the how to, giving that transparency like makes people appreciate things more.

I took a jewelry making class with my mother the other day and some of her friends and all of them left being like, this makes me appreciate the things I have like so much more. 'cause someone, some somewhere made my clothes like, yeah. Like, I wish everyone could take one of these classes. 

Ruben: Yeah, come, come to our studio.

Do your shirt yourself, and then we can, 

Lexy: yes. [00:13:00] 

Ruben: Yeah, 

Lexy: exactly. I'm like, I can barely handle. Making a, like sewing a button back onto my, my pants and I went to fashion school, so. 

Ruben: Okay, good. 

Lexy: So it's so amazing what you do, but as you mentioned you, you know, showcase at Berlin Fashion Week. So what do you hope that people felt walking into that show and what do you hope that they left thinking about?

Ruben: Yeah, so the show is like one and a half weeks ago, and, um, right after the show we went to Paris regarding like, um, um, fabric affair, uh, where we already selected new fabrics for future projects. And now it's like the first week settled down at the studio, fulfilling the orders and stuff, and the expectations for the collection, like the, the name of the collection is.

Innocence and we've been like thinking about, uh, how was it is how it was like personally, um, growing up. And this was divided into three phases. Like phase one [00:14:00] is like this little kid who's like a daydreamer. You can ask a kid. Yeah, what's your dream? What you gonna be one day? It's like. Fireworks, uh, working at the fireworks station police officer, like each day there's a new topic coming, coming up because like dreams are big and there is no regulation.

Then the second phase of the, um, collection is, um, like this little rebel, uh, you start to get to know your body, who I am crushing like the first like topics from mom and dad. And then it's like the third phase is like the grownup phase. Maybe being stuck in nine to five and then taking a look back to phase one and two.

And I, um, am I looking at the direction which I was like imagined, um, back in the days, like phase one or phase two, or should I step back, back maybe and take a look and I to restart? And this was clear in the beginning that we are talking about childhood and the idea was like that the people who visited the show to like.

Push them through the silhouettes and kind of different three phases and that they can remember and [00:15:00] think about their own childhood and how it is maybe nowadays to be a grown up. This was the idea. 

Lexy: That's so amazing. Oh my gosh. I love that. I'm always saying like, fashion is, you know so much more than just the clothes we put on our body.

You know, it, it can tell a story. It can. It's like a psychology. It's like literally if you wear an outfit or like colors that you wear, when you don't feel great, then you will continue to not feel great. Versus if you aren't feeling great having a bad day and you put on some bright colors, like it can literally, I know I'm a completely different person when I don't like my outfit versus when I do, so it's, it's so amazing to be able to tell.

Story with your collection. That's so incredible. And I think with telling a story, I mean as big of a platform as, you know, a fashion week is how do you approach kind of [00:16:00] telling the story of sustainability on that bigger stage? 

Ruben: Yeah. So what Burning Fashion Week is doing is, um, also something which is like, and Copenhagen Fashion Week is doing.

Mm-hmm. We have this like, uh, sustainable report. We need to transmit. Before we are able to do the show, and therefore we need to give like the Berlin Fashion Week team all insights. Like what is the team structured? Uh, how, how old is the team, where are they coming from, what kind of degrees, um, what fabrics are you using, what the silhouettes look looks like, and, um, all the more approach, like where do you produce, what do you produce, how much looks are you going to provide and show at the burning fashion week.

So you need to give like all detailed information before the show and afterwards you get accepted or not. And this is like, like the burden. Fashion week sustainable report is something, which is like a test phase right now, but the next season it's like a hundred percent. If you don't fulfill, you're not allowed to.

Lexy: Oh my gosh. This just like, I'm just like, America sucks. [00:17:00] Like, why are we not doing that? That's so cool. I had no idea that that was a thing. That is awesome. I, I, every time I talk about like sustainability, it's always like, this is what. The country that I do not live in is doing in the fashion industry for sustainability.

And of course we're not doing that here. That is so amazing. I am gonna have to look into that. 'cause I'm like, that is like the coolest thing ever. How do I get that to New York and, 

Ruben: mm-hmm. 

Lexy: Well, I was gonna say LA Fashion Week, but LA Fashion Week is not really a thing in comparison to all these other fashion weeks.

Um. So what do you, what do you, what's one thing that you kind of wish more fashion brands would do differently during fashion weeks all around the world? 

Ruben: No, it's pretty hard to tell because like, I am really new to this game, to be honest. It was the first of fashion brand and fashion week show, and I'm still like processing everything and learning and um, I guess I'm not in the position right now to, to think about the more bigger brands.

I'm just trying to do my own stuff and learn from others. So. Yeah, I'm not really sure what, what could be different. I mean, what always is the topic? It's like, oh, can I come to [00:18:00] your show? I would love to see it, for for sure. Would love to invite like even more people. 

Lexy: Mm-hmm. 

Ruben: But it's always like, um, the question of money, so.

Lexy: Mm-hmm. 

Ruben: For what kind of audience are you doing the show? What is like the impact afterwards? And maybe it would be cool if like more people have been able to come to shows. 

Lexy: Yeah. I love that. I completely agree. I think, you know, all of us wear clothes every single day. I mean, 

Ruben: yeah, yeah, exactly. 

Lexy: For the most part, I assume.

Um, and I think that it's, I mean, truly it's such an experience I've. Had the amazing privilege of going to like New York Fashion Week a few times in Paris and London. I really wanna go to Berlin Fashion Week and Copenhagen Fashion Week 'cause they are definitely more sustainable than the ones that happened here.

Um, but I, I do think it would be so ama like, it's, it's such a fun time and. You just, you get, it's like so inspiring. Like you're just surrounded by so many amazing, really cool people. And I just wish everyone could also be a part of that. I think fashion, fashion industry used to be, you know, a lot more exclusive and I think as we make it, you know, more [00:19:00] inclusive and, and really represent the people who are wearing these clothes, which is everyone, um, they should, they should also be able to attend and.

Other note is that answering my own question? I want everyone to have to also do their sustainability report in order to show that is so cool. 

Ruben: This is what Burning Fashion Week is doing. Uh, at least at the summer season. They're mostly like some events outside, so you can join. It's like possible for like one to 2000 people sometimes to join.

Lexy: Oh, wow. 

Ruben: And normally, like the normal fashion shows are like from, I guess starting from 202. 700 people only, but there are like some events you can go for free and without any invitation. And then this is also possible sometimes, and during Berlin Fashion week, when I rethink everyth about everything, it's like, it's mostly really Berlin based fashion brands.

So this is also cool. 

Lexy: Yeah. That's so amazing. I love that. I think that [00:20:00] that is definitely another important bit is like supporting. Obviously the, the companies that are founded in the area you're in is so, so important. Um, so what I mean, like, role, do you think these fashion weeks could play in the future, whether it's, you know, around sustainability or something else Entirely.

Ruben: Yeah, I mean, uh, as we talked before, it's like the sustainable report or something new 

Lexy: mm-hmm. 

Ruben: And like something which like is a copy from what Copenhagen is already doing. And they also, everyone tries to get like the, the impact and the footprint as low as possible. I mean, when we talk to fashion, it's like always there is always going to be an impact.

And, um, trying to keep this as low as possible is something which like other fashion weeks also can try. 

Lexy: Why 

Ruben: not? 

Lexy: Yeah. 

Ruben: So I mean, like a big brand like Louis Vuitton. Why don't you do like some, for example, more laser cut denim? 

Lexy: Mm-hmm. 

Ruben: Besides like stone washed denim. So we can save, for example, like 90 liters [00:21:00] of water just for one pence possible with the same effect.

So like some sustainable, uh, fisheries could be interesting. 

Lexy: Yes. Uh, gosh, 

Ruben: focus on this. 

Lexy: I am right there with you. I, I, I hope, I wish, I hope that that's the future where it's not even like, it's not even a sustainable fashion week. It's just a fashion week and it, everyone is just sustainable. 

Ruben: Yeah, yeah.

Yeah. So that's, it's like normal. Yeah. 

Lexy: I think that's, you know, the direction we need to go in, in the reality of, you know, how our, our planet is doing and, um. Again, if we're making stuff, if we're, if we're not gonna stop making stuff anytime soon, I highly, I highly doubt at that, considering we haven't stopped, we've increased production by a ton.

Um, and, um, and many of these, these brands. Um, and so if we're. If we're not stopping, at least let's make it the best that we can make it as, as we previously said. Well, I always like to end my podcasts on What are your top rapid fire tips for someone who is starting their journey to a more sustainable [00:22:00] lifestyle or just in general in the fashion industry?

Ruben: Yeah, so one thing I do, um, if I'm interested into like buying a new product, like just. For myself. 

Lexy: Mm-hmm. 

Ruben: Whatever it is. I'm just like doing this like seven days. Mm-hmm. Uh, so the first idea, okay, I really wanna have like this new kind of shoes. Okay. Interesting. Noted. Then I wait like seven days and if I'm still looking for the shoes and think that okay, I can still use them, then I maybe start considering of buying them shoes.

Lexy: Mm-hmm. 

Ruben: Yeah. So like I have the seven day rule that I really try to, okay. Sometimes I'm also dis impulsive and like, okay. Last week was good. Maybe do a little treatment on yourself. Like, I mean, what is life about? It's always like, and like you need to enjoy and, um, but yeah, sometimes I need to wait like seven days and then if I'm still thinking about it, then I can go and uh, buy something for myself.

Lexy: Yeah, completely. I think that's a great role. Again, just slowing down, my mom and I were at a vintage sale the other day [00:23:00] and she. Had tried something on, this was definitely not seven days. The, it was, it was maybe seven minutes, but she had put it down and she walked away and she was like, you know what, if I'm still thinking about it by the time we walk around all these like vendors and booths and stuff.

I'll go back and buy it. And so we were like on our way out and she was like, okay, I, I've really thought about it. I really, really want it. And we went back and it had sold the thing that she was looking 

Ruben: no. 

Lexy: And I was like, that's the only time where I'm like, God damn. Like, and she was like, I really, really wanted it.

Now that I've like, had time to think about it, and, but I was like, you know what? I honestly think like if it was meant to be, it would've been. And, and now we can. 'cause we know that she wants something along those lines and she has more time to think it through and we can try and do some research and find something that's maybe even better than the one that she had found.

Um, because we know that she wants it now. But at least it's like a guaranteed thing in her mind where it's like it's the one that got [00:24:00] away, but it's okay that it got away. It was fate. We'll find something better. I hate when that happens though. When I'm like, sucks. It's good to slow down and to think about our purchases so we're not making any impulse purchases.

'cause the longer you slow down to think about it, the more likely you are to keep something in your closet for a longer time, which is inevitably more sustainable than buying something and then getting rid of it the next time. Well, thank you so much. Where can people find you on social media or shop your collection?

Ruben: For sure we are on, uh, social media like Instagram, TikTok, YouTube, just put in naru. Um, so my name is Ru and like the first letter is just other way around. It's Naru. Um, we are all over all social medias and trying to do our best there. 

Lexy: Amazing. Well, everyone go check them out. Go get some, some really cool, sustainable clothes.

Um, support an amazing Berlin company and [00:25:00] thank you so much for coming on my podcast.

 That's it for this week's episode of the Lexie Show Fashion. That gives a damn. Big thanks to Reuben for showing us how fashion can be both bold and sustainable.

Whether it's fashion or everyday products. This is how sustainability should work. If this conversation resonated with you, subscribe so you don't miss an episode at leave a review and share this with someone who needs to hear it. Head to lexi silverstein.com for more content on sustainable style and conscious consumption.

And follow me on Instagram, TikTok and YouTube at Lexi Silverstein. That's LEXY silver like the color, S-T-E-I-N. Remember to live a good life and look fucking good doing it, and demand better from brands in your closet and everywhere else. See you next week.